Faris Hotel Revisited January 2018

The Tayegetus peak covered in snow. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

This is the view from our room at the Faris Hotel, as it was in the middle of January 2018. Luckily there was no snow on the approach road as there had been in previous years.

Low-cloud over the Faris Hotel and the Tayegetus mountains. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

Unfortunately the weather wasn’t very good. For two days we couldn’t see the peak because of low-lying cloud. The weather was very similar to that which we experienced when we visited in 2016.

Finally the cloud disappeared and the view of the mountain was spectacular, the one you can see in the photo above.

There was sad news awaiting us. My favourite dog, Argos, had been killed on 15th August, by wild boar. His mother had been partially blinded by them too, two years before. His remains (hair and skin) were all that remained of him. A very sad end to such a wonderfully gentle creature. I last saw him in April 2017 at Easter time. He was killed on the 15th of August, the Feast of the Virgin Mary.

Argos minus his satellite cat!
Credit Nikos Kapsalis

It wasn’t a totally gloomy stay, however, as Argos has a half-sister, although, she may be a sister, as no one is absolutely sure which of the local dos fathered her. I had thought that she was a he!

Argos younger brother and sister. Photo credit Nikos Kapsalis

My confusion arose because George, the owner of the Faris Hotel had said that he wanted  a male puppy like the mother, Thebe. I just thought that the puppy George kept was a male because of that conversation. This puppy’s name is Gola, so I should have realised that she is female (because of the feminine ending ‘a’). I’m not quite sure which puppy is Gola in the photo above! However, she is now much bigger!

Argos and his satellite cat! Photo credit Nikos Kapsalis

Gola and Argos’ cat friend are on very friendly terms, although Gola, (I call her Fluffy because I haven’t yet mastered the Greek gamma sound) mat not be as enamoured with Gola because she has a tendency to pick the cat up by the scruff of its neck so that she can take her to wherever she likes. Argos didn’t do that. the cat had much more freedom.

Log fire at the Faris Hotel. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

The log fire burned for the whole time we were at the hotel – four days, so we sat beside,or in front of it when the weather was bad. Then the weather cleared but it was freezing outside. In fact we only got out of the car to visit the ATM in Xirocambi, a village below the mountain.

We stayed in the Faris Hotel for meals, all cooked by George. I particularly like the meat plexoudi, plaited pork cooked in the oven.

I’m always sad when I leave the Faris Hotel and the Peloponnese, but hopefully, we shall return soon! Next time we may be able to explore more of the area.



Posted in eating and drinking, Faris hotel, Greece, Laconia, Peloponnese, Travel | Tagged , , , , , | 1 Comment

A quick trip along the Athenian Riviera

Aghia Marina, the Athenian Riviera, Taverna Lazarou. Photo credit: Nikos Kapsalis.

Last week the heat in Athens was almost unbearable, so when I was asked where I wanted to go to eat, I immediately said “Somewhere with a breeze and trees.”

My friend knew the exact spot: Lazarou Taverna in Aghia Marina on the Athenian Riviera. I agreed with alacrity, but then realised that we never managed to find it open last year. However, there are plenty of other tavernas open, so it wouldn’t have been a problem if it was still closed. Cape Sounion is close by and the fish taverna there is always open, even in winter.

Fish taverna on the beach at Sounio. Photo credit Melissa Julian-Jones

We got to Aghia Marina and Taverna Lazarou just before sunset, with the sun turning the sea orange. The tamarisk trees growing on the beach in front of the taverna afforded us some welcome shade, and there was a slight breeze. It is just as we remember it.

View from Lazarou Taverna over the sea, Aghia Marina, Athenian Riviera. Photo credit Nikos Kapsalis.

As the sun set we got even more amazing photos of the sunset.

Sunset over the Athenian Riviera from Lazarou Taverna. Photo credit Nikos Kapsalis.

The food wasn’t as good as I remembered it, but at least we were out of the city and had excellent scenery to look at!

Sunset at Taverna Lazarou, Aghia Marina, the Athenian Riviera. Photo credit: Nikos Kapsalis.

We stayed enjoying the cool air for some time, even after it was dark – probably much to the annoyance of the waiters, as we were the only customers!

If you are in Athens and want to go to Sounio to see the amazing temple of Poseidon, I suggest you book a tour with Kostas at http://enjoygreecetours.com

Posted in Cape Sounio, eating and drinking, Greece | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Take a short tour of the Peloponnese

See Corinth, Mycenae and Nafplio in a day with Enjoy Tours Greece and Kostas

Ernmuhl at lb.wikipedia

Corinth canal
Credit Emmuhl at Ib.wikipedia

If you have never been to Corinth or Mycenae or Nafplio, you are in for a treat! On the way to Corinth make sure you look out of the left-hand side windows for breath-taking views over the Gulf of Corinth. The large island close to the mainland is Salamina, ancient Salamis, where Xerxes, the Persian emperor, watched the defeat of his fleet in 480 BC. It was quite a victory as the valiant Greeks were outnumbered by the Persians.

The blues of the sea are incredible on sunny days, so you may want to take some photos. In fact, this trip down to Nafplio gives you a chance to see some spectacular scenery.

The Corinth Canal

The Corinth canal, which joins the Gulf of Corinth and the Saronic Gulf is one of the engineering marvels of the 19th century. Only when looking down on it from the road can you begin to understand what a feat of engineering this was. It is amazing to actually go down the canal, as you can almost touch the sides from the boat.

If you didn’t have breakfast, you may be able to pick up a souvlaki or gyros just a few steps away from the canal.

Ancient Corinth and Akrocorinth

photo credit:.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/8e/GR-korinth-odeion.jpg


Ancient Corinth is where St Paul addressed the Corinthians. You can walk in his footsteps around this ruined city and visit the onsite museum.

Afterwards, head for the hills and Akrocorinth. Take a jacket, as it’s usually windy and cool, if not cold, up there. This city has been inhabited by the ancient Greeks, the Romans, the Byzantines, the Franks, Venetians, the Knights of St John and the Turks. They all added bits to the city, so it is a melange of architectural styles. You need to be fit to walk to the top of the city, as there are quite a few steps to negotiate. The view from the top is well worth the effort.

It’s always windy at Akrocorinth. Credit Kosatas Kasolas

Most tours don’t go to Akrocorinth, so if you want to go there, arrange it in advance with Kostas. It will add a couple of hours to your tour. That means that you might want a customised tour, leaving Nafplio until another time.


Photo credit: Carole Raddato from FRANKFURT, Germany – The Lion Gate, Mycenae, CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=45976024





Mycenae is perhaps most famous because of the brothers, Agamemnon and Menelaus, the ‘Lions of the house of Atreus’ which are carved in stone in the arch above the gate to this ancient site. Clytemnestra’s bath can also still be seen here, as can her tomb which dates back to around 1,200 BC.

If you remember the story, Clytemnestra was Agamemnon’s wife. He sacrificed their daughter Iphigenia so that the gods would give the Greeks good weather to sail for Troy. When Agamemnon returned years later, Clytemnestra killed him to avenge her daughter’s death.

The “Treasury of Atreus” or “Agamemnon’s tomb” is not on the same site, but it’s very close, on the opposite side of the road to the palace complex.

The museum is a must-see on the site. You’ll need about an hour to see all the exhibits. Don’t miss it!

When you can tear yourself away from Mycenae, you will start the trip to Nafplio which takes you through orange groves. Just before you get to Nafplio, you will see the excavations of Tiryns. This is a World Heritage Site along with the palace complex at Mycenae.

Tiryns is associated with Hercules, as the king of the city, according to myth and legend, gave Hercules his labours from his palace in Tiryns. For the ancient Greeks, Tiryns unbelievable, so they attributed its building not to men, but to the race of Cyclops.



Fortress on Bourtzi Nafplio. Credit: Ifernyen at French Wikipedia

Nafplio was the first modern capital of Greece after the revolution of 1823. It remained the capital until 1834 when Athens became capital.

If you walk along the promenade, you will see the Venetian fortress, Bourtzi, where Kolokotronis was imprisoned after the revolution. He had been its hero. In summer, you can take a boat to the fortress.

Above Nafplio is the Palamidi castle, the second prison Kolokotronis was sent to. You can drive most of the way up to the castle, so don’t be daunted by the steps! There are said to be 999 of them. Take care if you clamber around the walls!

Nafplio, with its neoclassical architecture is a shopper’s paradise. the winding cobbled streets of the old town are truly fascinating. You never know what you will see. There is a komboloi (worry beads) museum at Staikopoulou 25, if you are interested in these.

There are many other things to see in Nafplio, such as the archaeological museum and the Folklore Museum on King Alexander 1, St. If you have time, visit the National Gallery at 23 Sidiras Merarhias St.

For me, no trip to Nafplio would be complete without a visit to Roulis taverna. You can have meat dishes too!

You’ll certainly sleep well when you get back to Athens after this wonderful tour!

Enjoy Greece tours with your guide, Kostas!

Posted in Uncategorized | 2 Comments

Back to the Faris Hotel, Laconia

2017 Easter at the Faris Hotel, Laconia, Greece.
Credit: Nikos Kapsalis

A few days before Easter, we went back to the Faris Hotel in Laconia, Peloponnese, Greece, to spend Easter there. One reason was that we had had such a good time there the year before.  However, I can always find a good reason to stay there. Perhaps we go for the oregano, the balsamo, or just to see how the landscape has changed with the season. Balsamo in English is St. John’s wort. It grows around the hotel, and in summer it is harvested, then steeped in olive oil, locally produced of course, and used to alleviate aches and pains in the joints and back It is also good for wound-healing. It is virtually a cure-all and I am so glad we found it. Actually, it was George, the owner of the Faris Hotel, who introduced me to it.

Argos and his satellite cat! Photo credit Nikos Kapsalis

This cat is inseparable from Argos, George’s large Greek mountain dog. They are always together, unless Argos is patrolling the hotel grounds, earning his keep by protecting creatures and people from wild boar. Argos is a very lovable, friendly, giant of a dog. I am so glad that he likes us though, as his teeth are huge! I have to be very careful because he tends to walk between my legs or hits the back of my knees with his very waggy tail. I was horrified to see that he had a healed wound cause by a boar’s tusk when we got there this time.

Argos minus his satellite cat! Credit Nikos Kapsalis

Argos was almost totally black as a puppy, but now he has some chestnut in his fur. I know that dogs have hair, but his is more like fur! look at the way he has crossed his front paws – just like a human! Look at his face, he’s totally irresistible!

Faces in the clouds over the Faris Hotel, Laconia, Peloponnese, Greece.
Credit Nikos Kapsalis

The weather wasn’t bad all the time, so we managed to get to the taverna we like on the beach at Varthi. The ducks were in attendance too. They like the hot spring water that flows into the sea, I think.

View from the balcony of the room in the Faris Hotel. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

Of course we stopped in the new Rouchanas taverna in Corinthos on the way and on the way back from the Faris hotel.

This is how wine is served at Rouchanas Taverna, Corinth. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

The new taverna looks a bit upmarket, but the standard of cooking is the same. The ‘new’ taverna can be found on the Corinth- Epidauros road. You’ll love it if you like fish and seafood,. Now there’s a small garden just off the main road. Great in summer as there will be shade from the mulberry trees. However, I think I might need a sun hat.

Monastery above Xirokampi, Laconia, Peloponnese. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

This time we actually managed the short drive up the mountain above Xirokampi, which is close to the Faris Hotel. We got to the monastery (Zembritsa), only to find that it was shut. We had seen the turret-like building many times from the mountain road, but we hadn’t realised what it was. Now we know.

Monastery above Xirocampi. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

I guess we will have to go again and try to get inside the monastery complex. Another excuse to go to the Tayegetus mountains and the Faris Hotel!

Posted in eating and drinking, Faris hotel, Greece, Laconia, Peloponnese, Travel | 2 Comments

Goodbye 2016!

Well, I can’t say that I’m not glad to see the back of 2016. For me, February was a particularly horrendous month. However, I got through it. How, eludes me!

March was better and so was April. There were trips to the Peloponnese and the Faris Hotel.

In March we went to Milos and stayed at Captain Zeppo’s boutique hotel. The weather was foul most of the four days we were there, but we did manage to see the whole island. It isn’t my favourite Cycladic island, but it does have a certain charm, and the hotel was wonderful.

We travelled a little further afield in autumn and went to Mytileni on the island of Lesbos in October. It was full of refugees and not many tourists.

We went to Mystras several times while we were in the Peloponnese and to the beach at Gythio. Then we found a really good taverna on a beach, with fish that were really fresh. We watched them being cleaned in the sea, shortly after they were landed.

I spent a lot of time in Plaka, as always, and was there on Christmas Day and New Year’s Eve. We ate at the Taverna Plaka, where I have been eating and drinking for more than 30 years now. This is close to the Hotel Acropolis House, where I saw a ghost.

So last night four of us ate at the Plaka Taverna in Kidathenaeion St. As it was New Year’s Eve, the wine and tsiporou flowed freely.  When we left, well after midnight, the most sober person handed me a jacket and said that it belonged to someone who had left earlier. Given that I thought the woman was sober, I didn’t look at the jacket.

When I got home, I realised that the jacket was a woman’s  clearly it didn’t belong to my friend. I inspected it more closely and discovered that it was a designer label jacket.

On new Year’s Day I phoned the taverna to tell them that the jacket was safe and we would take it back to the taverna that day or the next. Why I had to do it was beyond me, but it was easier than persuading the culprit to phone with an explanation. It’s a good thing they know me!

So that episode marked the end of 2016! I hope 2017 will be a better year for everyone!

Chronia polla! Happy New Year!


Posted in eating and drinking, Greece, Travel | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

From Athens to the Peloponnese and back

This return trip from Athens to the Peloponnese is now a very familiar one. Sometimes, when the wind is blowing away from the road, we stop at Kineta, where the oil refinery belches out its acrid s…

Source: From Athens to the Peloponnese and back

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

From Athens to the Peloponnese and back

Kineta - a stop on the way. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

Kineta – a stop on the way. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

This return trip from Athens to the Peloponnese is now a very familiar one. Sometimes, when the wind is blowing away from the road, we stop at Kineta, where the oil refinery belches out its acrid smoke. We can’t take photos too close to the refinery for security reasons. We discovered this when a security guard appeared out of the blue and moved us and the camera away.

Sheep grazing near the oil refinery. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

Sheep grazing near the oil refinery. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

These rather large sheep were grazing close to where the first photo was taken. The man is a shepherd in charge of the flock.

Near the oil refinery at Kineta. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

Near the oil refinery at Kineta. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

The next stop is always to Rouchanas near Corinth for something fishy and some tsipourou. I have only just discovered that I like this drink, and so am making up for lost time. In fact, over the past few months, since I discovered I like it, I have become something of a connoisseur.

This is how wine is served at Rouchanas Taverna, Corinth. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

This is how wine is served at Rouchanas Taverna, Corinth. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

There’s a beach close to the taverna, but this time, we didn’t even sit outside, much less go to the beach. instead we joined the other customers (most eating crayfish) around the fireplace.  We had shrimps and remembered not to order octopus, which is out of season until March. The frozen variety is not as good!

Part of the Tayegetus mountain range. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

Part of the Tayegetus mountain range. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

There was some debate about whether we should take a detour and go exploring, but we decided against that (for a change!). Had it been summer we wouldn’t have thought twice, but there was a possibility of snow.

View from the balcony of the room in the Faris Hotel. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

View from the balcony of the room in the Faris Hotel. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

We decided to go straight to the Faris Hotel, our usual haunt on top of a mountain in Laconia, near the monastery of Gola. My favourite dog was there to greet us. Although still technically a puppy, just a year old, he is huge. He had grown out, rather than up, and rather noticeably from when we last saw him two months before.

A view of the Tayegetus just after dawn from the Faris Hotel. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

A view of the Tayegetus just after dawn from the Faris Hotel. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

Of course, we started our stay with tsiporou in front of the fire in the restaurant part of the hotel. The next morning we awoke to the scene above. However, it was soon to snow on the peak of the pyramid pictured above.

View of the Temple of Poseidon from the taverna. Credit Melissa Julian-Jones

View from a balcony at the Faris Hotel. Credit Melissa Julian-Jones

Luckily it didn’t snow around the hotel as it had done the year before. I was fantasising about the possibility of getting snowed in, and was half hoping that would happen! But it didn’t!

We stayed for a week, but the weather was not too good and it was cold. Now it’s New Year’s Eve and I am wishing that I was back there!

Posted in eating and drinking, Greece, Travel | Tagged , , , , , | 1 Comment

My own Athenian Ghost Story (Part 2)

Hotel Acropolis House. Plaka Athens.Photo credit Nikos Kapsalis

You should really read Part 1 of this ghost story to understand it fully. The first part took place in Athens, at the Hotel Acropolis House, Kodrou 6, Plaka Athens. This part begins approximately ten years later, when I was back in South Wales.

I was working for the county council, doing outreach work in the community in Newport. I went to visit a company which trained teenagers to do certain manual jobs. The community was a multicultural one close to the docks. my friend managed the scheme, so I always enjoyed going to visit her.

This time, after I had had coffee and a chat, she asked me if I had met the South African guy who was working with her. I hadn’t, so she called him into her office and introduced us. I was stunned when I saw him, as he looked like my Athenian ghost.

Hotel Acropolis House, Plaka, Athens. Photo credit: Nikos Kapsalis.

Hotel Acropolis House, Plaka, Athens. Photo credit: Nikos Kapsalis.

I must have turned pale as he was concerned about me. I sat down and told him my ghost story. He was, to me, my ghost.

When I had finished my tale it was his turn to be amazed. He asked if I would wait while he went home to get some photographs. Of course I would!

When he came back, he was carrying a shoe box. It turned out to contain photographs, sepia as well as black and white.

His family had built the house which had become the Hotel Acropolis House. It was a family home, and my ghost had had several brothers. He was in the photos, and my new friend told me the story of how the family had moved to South Africa after he had committed suicide in the ballroom.

Hotel Acropolis House at night, Photo credit Nikos Kapsalis.

Hotel Acropolis House at night, Photo credit Nikos Kapsalis.

They grew even richer from gold and diamonds, although they lost most of the money because they were inveterate gamblers. My friend had left South Africa when he was young and had been a bank manager in Wales, after various adventures on the way.

It was very strange to meet my “ghost’ in the flesh. We became friends and slowly he told me more about his family, but not about my ghost, as he had never met him. He confessed, while looking at the photos that there was a striking resemblance between him and my ghost.

What a weird feeling though, to meet a ghost in the flesh. I wonder if anything like this has happened to anyone else.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

My own Athenian ghost story (Part 1)

Hotel Acropolis House. Plaka Athens.Photo credit Nikos Kapsalis

Hotel Acropolis House. Plaka Athens.Photo credit Nikos Kapsalis

The Hotel Acropolis House has changed since I first stayed there way back in 1985. It’s in my favourite area of Athens, Plaka.

I had been living on Mykonos for 18 months, but had decided to go and teach in Turkey. For various personal reasons that meant that I needed to go back to Britain for a couple of weeks. I was going by ferry and road, so it was going to take some time to get back to the UK.

I had arranged to have money transferred to me and sent to the National Bank of Greece in central Athens. I had an account on Mykonos, and with typical Greek inefficiency (it’s better now) the bank in Athens sent the money to my account in Mykonos.

When I arrived at the bank in Athens, they told me that they had sent it to Mykonos only half an hour before. I pointed out that it must still be there, so please could they check and give it to me. “Oh no!” was the reply, as now the fax was down. This was a usual occurrence/excuse.

Of course they needed to have it confirmed in writing (fax) that the money was in my account.

“Come back tomorrow” they said.

That was the start of my misfortunes.

I didn’t have much money with me, and really needed to get my hands on some. Luckily I was with a couple of Irish friends of mine, so it wasn’t an immediate problem.

Hotel Acropolis House at night, Photo credit Nikos Kapsalis.

Hotel Acropolis House at night, Photo credit Nikos Kapsalis.

It was apparent that we would have to stay in Athens at least for the night. My friends knew the Acropolis House Hotel and the Plaka area, so we went for lunch in what has become my favourite taverna: Taverna Plaka in Kidathenaeion St.

We left the taverna and checked in to the Acropolis House Hotel. The guy we were with was given a dormitory room, sharing with a couple of Aussies. My friend and I had a huge bedroom, which had been half of a ballroom when the house was a family one, in the 19th century.

I have to tell you that there was only one light switch to pull and that was above my friend;s head. I was on the far side of the room.

I was almost drifting off to sleep when I saw a man in evening wear (stiff, starched collar, bow tie and black suit) standing over my bed. He bent down and was just about to kiss me when my friend pulled the light cord.

She had felt cold, and wondered why. I was so glad to have the room illuminated by the antiquated chandelier!

I told her what I had seen, and we grabbed some clothes and went to the reception desk. The person at the desk was not the same one as had been there when we checked in.

We told him about the ghost and he stared at me rather disconcertingly, given the situation.

He pulled a sepia photograph from under the reception desk and asked me if I recognised anyone. I immediately pointed to my ghost. Then he asked me to look more closely. It was my friend who pointed to a woman and said, “Lynne, that’s you.”

I looked and saw that the woman really did look like me, or perhaps I should say that I looked like her.

Hotel Acropolis House, Plaka, Athens. Photo credit Nikos Kapsalis.

Hotel Acropolis House, Plaka, Athens. Photo credit Nikos Kapsalis.

I asked who the people were, and was told that the man and woman had been engaged. The hotel (then a house) had belonged to the man’s family and they had built it.

The woman had come from a wealthy Athenian family and when her father did a little digging into he fiances background, he insisted she break off the engagement because the man’s father had got all his money from gambling.

She did as her father wished and broke off the engagement.

Her betrothed was so distraught that he hanged himself from the chandelier in what was then the ballroom – where I had been trying to sleep.

The next night, and for several after that, we stayed somewhere else.

Posted in Greece | Tagged , , , , | 10 Comments

And the Booze Arrived in a Taxi

This is how wine is served at Rouchanas Taverna, Corinth. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

This is how wine is served at Rouchounas Taverna, Corinth. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

Last weekend, (13th November 2016) it was the Athens Marathon. When this event takes place, the city centre is closed to traffic, as the race ends at the old Olympic stadium. That being the case, my friends can’t ply their trade as taxi drivers, which means a day off to go to our favourite fish taverna just outside Corinth.

Outside taverna Rouchounas. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

Outside Taverna Rouchounas. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

This time we were on a mission to buy some tsipourou, almost the local equivalent of fire water if it is not very good. However, as with its fish and seafood, the taverna has some excellent tsipourou.

The owner of Rouchounas FishTaverna near Corinth. Credit: Nikos Kapsalis

The owner of Rouchounas FishTaverna near Corinth. Credit: Nikos Kapsalis

As it was a Sunday, there was a guy playing a bouzouki, and everyone had a bit of a sing-song. The singing was aided by the tsipourou and wine.

My friend asked about taking some tsipourou home with us, but there wasn’t enough, so we were resigned to coming back to Athens without it. We were told that if we wanted any, we should phone a day or two in advance of our next visit. So we were disappointed.

Where the fish and sea food are coked on a grill over wood. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

Where the fish and sea food are cooked on a grill over wood. Credit Nikos Kapsalis

Then the day was saved by the owner, pictured above with a glass of tsipourou in his hand. He made a phone call, and our tsipourou (3 litres of it) was delivered, by taxi, to the taverna. The owner sat at our table and brought us a couple more glasses of it. He finally allowed us to go back to Athens, and I have to say that a fine time was had by the three of us.

I can’t wait for our next visit!

Posted in eating and drinking, Greece, Travel | Tagged , , , , , | 2 Comments